CATEYE Wired Bike Computer – Entry-Level Speedometer and Odometer, Perfect for Beginner Cyclists, Auto Start/Stop, Easy Setup for Road, MTB, Gravel Bikes, 3 Year Battery Life

A GEM OF A COMPUTER
This is my first foray into the realm of bicycle computers. I started riding again after my two kids got old enough to be on their own. I ride mostly in town, commuting ten miles or so to and from the usual places, but I also started going on some suitably longer trips out into the countryside. And after a while, after all that time spent pedaling and pedaling, one begins to wonder certain things, like: “How fast am I actually going, how many miles am I traveling on these trips, and how long is all of this taking?”I know what you’re thinking: “So why do I need a bike computer when all this information can be obtained using my smartphone’s maps or other such apps along with GPS positioning?” Well, I tried that, and even after just a few trips, this bike computer is MUCH easier to use than any smartphone. Some things like this computer or any bike computer for that matter are just better suited to do one specific job.Anyway, everything is included in order to successfully install the VELO 7. If anything, you might need a few more zip ties. It took me about an hour. I have a TREK mountain bike. It has shocks, V-brakes and handlebars with a three inch rise. I also have a handlebar pannier that is situated out in front and just above the brake and shift cables; it’s two handlebar clamps take up some clamping space to either side of the center handlebar clamp, and because of this, there’s not much space left to add accessories like this computer. Even with all of this STUFF to contend with, installation was still a breeze.If you are thinking about installing the sensor to the rear wheel, Cuz Front Shocks, then stop that nonsense, because you won’t be able to do it; the wire that runs from the wheel up to the computer itself is not long enough for rear wheel installation. It doesn’t matter anyway because everything has been thought out well enough so that you can install the computer to any set of shocks.You can mount the VELO 7 on either your handlebars (parallel to you) or on your goose neck (perpendicular to you). The mount has two sets of half circles for either orientation. But if you are thinking about mounting the computer to an up-bend on your handlebars, then just realize that the mount cannot be angled back flat to the ground. The mount is rigid; it does not tilt in other words.Theft deterrent. The computer can be removed from the mount while you’re away from your bike. Just slip it into your pocket!NOTE: If you really want to make the computer’s data output as accurate as possible, then you need to measure the wheel’s circumference as accurately as possible. Do this by marking off and measuring the distance the wheel travels in one rotation using a flat surface like the cement in your garage. Do this WHILE SITTING ON THE BIKE. If you go by the chart, then you might be off by as much as a few centimeters. That’s because your tire flattens under your added weight which shortens the actual radius of the wheel/tire. Once you have this measurement (rounded to the closest centimeter, mine was 201cm) write that number down as you will input it into the computer later on.NOTE: It matters not where on your spokes and forks you mount the two sensor parts. The computer doesn’t use radius measurements of any kind from your wheel for calculating data, but circumference instead (See note above).So it’s easy to install, but what about the computer’s functionality you ask? Well, that is even better!SIMPLICITY. That’s how I would describe the functionality of the VELO 7. It has only one big button to push and one big screen to look at. That’s it, and that’s how it should be once you think about it: You have only one hand to push only one button, cuz the other one should be steering. And you want to be able to glance down and read the info on the big screen quickly and easily, because obviously you should be watching where you’re going instead.Always on the top of the screen is SPEED. So too is something called PACE ARROW(s). SPEED is obvious but PACE not so much. These PACE ARROWS – one up, one down, or both showing at the same time – tell you when you are going faster, slower, or the same speed as your average speed.Oh, also always showing on the screen are the letters MPH, miles per hour (or KPH, kilometer per hour, if you’re into that sorta thing). MPH starts flashing when you begin your trip and stays flashing until you stop at any time. The flashing MPH kinda tells you that the computer is working, making the necessary calculations. (Elapsed time is related to the flashing MPH, see below.)Pressing the big button toggles the bottom of the screen through: TM, elapsed time; DST, current trip distance; AV, average speed; MX, maximum speed; ODO, total of ALL miles regardless of current trip distance; and CLOCK, the time of day.ONE INTERESTING NOTE: The computer will stop counting elapsed time when you stop the bike. This is actually a good thing. It resumes when you begin peddling again. The flashing MPH tells you that elapsed time is happening. They are one and the same.Pressing and holding the big button for a few seconds resets everything on the current trip. All except ODO and CLOCK. ODO and CLOCK are permanent.That is until you hit the ALL CLEAR button on the back of the computer.There is an ALL CLEAR and RESET button on the back of the computer; both are small and recessed. ALL CLEAR clears the computer back the factory settings, resetting ODO and CLOCK to zero. RESET is a bit different; it allows you to change the CLOCK, change MPH or KPH, and change the circumference setting of your wheel. All this without resetting the ODO.I read online somewhere that the battery lasts for years. We’ll see. The computer goes dormant after a while, and then only the clock is shown on the screen. As soon as you get on your bike and start a new trip, the computer wakes up automatically . KUDOS!!!The hardest part probably, and it’s not really that difficult once you get the hang of things, is setting up the computer itself. You have to push the RESET button on the back and toggle through some simple menus using the big button on the front, then input some info. I liken it to setting up a Casio wristwatch. Remember those things? Push the wrong button and you’re back resetting everything and starting over. It can get frustrating. But it’s not that bad though really.Simple to install. Easy to use. Intuitive design. Actually gives you valuable data at a glance when riding. Smarter than some people I know. A big screen. This thing will literally “Get You To The Church On Time.”The price is great for what you get. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!—–UPDATE:8/13/2015—–I started having some weird intermittent signal generation problems. When riding, the computer would go to 0 (zero) MPH and ELAPSED TIME would stop. It would then start up again, then stop, then start. But things finally got worse and it stopped altogether. At first I thought it was the sensor down on the wheel; I thought the two sensor parts were misaligned or were too far apart to work properly. But that was not the case.The problem instead was a loose wire up on the mount. I must have removed the computer from the mount once too forcefully because one of those metal pickups dislodged itself just enough from its wire to stop making contact, either that or they were never properly aligned to begin with. So, I had to realign the pickup with its wire. I did this by popping out pickup from the wire using a sharp, pointed knife. Then I just pressed it back into the wire. This must have done the trick because the computer began to work again. No more intermittent signal problems.Little things like this can drive me crazy. But, I’ll just file this one under “Working Out All The Bugs.” Still Highly Recommended!

Excellent bike computer
Excellent bike computer. Just purchased a second one for my other bike. Real easy to set up and use.

Well, this is a super simple cycling computer and I was not expecting too much due to the price.I got surprised after comparing the distance measured by it with my Garmin watch.In rides of more than 60km, the difference was like 100 ~ 300m, which is nothing.The rule of thumb here is to user the “complex setup”, by inputting the exact size of the tires. After that, it works like a charm!

This works exactly as it should- I have one on my cross-country mountain bike and it took about 10min to install. Love that it starts up and stops with your activity (based on rotations of the wheel) and makes me push myself a little bit further than I normally would by seeing stats.UPDATE: I’ve also bought a 2nd unit and installed on my winter training spin bike- although there’s no way to properly calibrate actual speed/distance on a spin bike, the relative speed/distance are something I monitor in a workout and the timer is also helpful.I would recommend this to a friend 😉

Funzioni base, qualità giapponese.ottimo